How to identify type of mouse, inspect for mice, how to control using trapping or rodencticides, and how to bait.

House Mouse

Flying Squirrel


The adult house mouse is small and slender and about 1-2 inches long, excluding tail. It has large ears, pointed nose and small eyes. The tail is as long as the head and body combined. The fur color varies, but it is usually a light grey or brown, but could be darker shades.


Mice will eat almost anything, but prefer cereal grains, seeds, or sweet material. They require very little water, obtaining most of their water needs from their food.

Habits and biology:

If there are good living conditions(food, water, and shelter),they can multiply rapidly. They sexually mature in two months, producing about 8 litters in a one year life time. Each litter has 4-7 pups. A house mice in a city environment may spend it's entire life in buildings. In rural and suburban settings, it may not only live inside, but be found outside near foundations, in the shrubbery, weeds, crawl spaces, basements, or in garages. They survive well on weeds, seeds, or insects, but when their food supply is shortened by the colder months they move inside nesting closer to a food supply. They make their nest from soft material like paper, insulation, or furniture stuffing. These nest are found in many places including: in walls, ceiling voids, storage boxes, drawers, under major appliances, or within the upholstery of furniture. Outside the nests are found in debris or in ground burrows.

Mice while being "nibblers" eating many times at different places, they do have two main meal times...just before dawn and at dusk...they simply "snack" at other times at intervals or every 1-2 hours. They can eat about 10 to 15% of their body weight every day, the adults weighing about 5/8-1 oz. They get much of there water from food products.

House mouse inspection:

Their droppings(feces)are about 1/8-1/4 inch long, rod shaped. They gnaw small, clean holes about 1-1/2 inches in diameter. Many times in kitchens you will find gnawing damage on the corner of boxes and paper, shredded for their nest. They will gnaw at bar soaps.

Deer and White Footed Mouse

Flying Squirrel


The average body length is about 6 inches, including the tail. Bicolored: darker upper body coloration compared to the white undersides.Both the Deer and the White Footed are similar in appearance.

Habits and biology:

The deer and white footed mouse rarely invades homes, and is found in rural areas. Both species may enter houses, garages, storage sheds, and stored campers during the cooler months. They breed during the spring and summer months. Their nests may be underground in cavities about the roots of trees or shrubs, beneath a log or board, or in a tunnel built by another animal. Aboveground nest may be found in hollow trees, unused equipment,cabinet voids,unused furniture, wood piles,fence posts, and old bird or squirrel nests.

Deer and White footed mice are the primary carriers of the hanta virus and Lyme disease.When present, this virus is spread through the rodent's urine and feces. They are nocturnal. These mice live in burrows they have made, abandoned burrows of other animals, beneath rocks, in stumps, in soil cracks, in debris, or in any other protected location.


As with the House Mouse, control can be accomplished by snap traps, glue boards or multiple mouse traps. They have a tendency to store food. If using a baiting program it is best to use a bait blox used with a rod in a Mouse Protecta Bait Station, so they don't carry the bait off for storage(such as pellets)for later consumption. Baits should be placed in the same way as for the House Mouse, close to the suspected activit

Inspection Tips

UV FLASHLIGHT to help detect presence of rodent urine for easier help detect presence of rodent urine for easier inspection. Using a flashlight to inspect dark, recessed areas that rodents(mice and rats) frequent would help you discover problem areas. When inspecting, keep in mind that you are looking for signs of activity: gnawing, urine, droppings and tracks. Most people underestimate the size of the infestation and under-bait or under-trap, without proper and adequate bait and trap placements. Begin the inspection from the exterior to the interior. Focus on areas that may provide water, food or harborage: vegetation, refuse or wood piles, bird feeders, waterways, garages, carports, attics, crawl spaces, cupboards, closets and food storage areas. Entry points are important to consider when inspecting: windows, door thresholds, utility lines, rooftops and downspouts. Rodents have oily hair leaving smudge marks where they consistently travel. Droppings, urine trails and gnawing marks all are signs of rodent activity. Feces are critical in determining the type of rodent and measure of activity.

uv tracker lightUV Pro Tracker Urine Tracker Led UV Light to help detect presence of rodent urine for easier inspection.


Trapping Recommendations

There are several advantages for using traps:

1. Safer than potential hazardous poison baits

2. Quick, immediate results

3. Easy disposal of dead rodents avoiding odor problems that will occur if rodenticides kill rodents in inaccessible areas.

4. Types of traps: Snap Traps, Glue Traps and Live Traps

Snap Traps, Glue Boards, and Multiple Traps

Place mice traps up against walls, behind objects, and in secluded areas where mouse droppings, gnawing and damage are evident. Snap traps should be oriented perpendicular to the wall, with the trigger end against the vertical surface.

You may need more snap traps than you think is warranted. Check the mouse snap traps daily. If nothing happens in a couple of days, move the traps to a new location. Mice are not afraid of new things or bothered by the smell of humans or dead mice on traps.

Multiple-catch traps should be placed with the entrance hole parallel to the wall.

Traps and glue boards should be checked daily and dead mice disposed of in plastic bags. Gloves should be worn when handling mouse carcasses to prevent any chance of disease.

Place mouse traps about 6 to 10 feet apart, since mice tend to travel very short distances.

For greater success with mouse traps, try using a mouse attractant like Provoke Mouse Attractant with your trap.

mini t rexMini Trapper T-Rex Trap will fit in the protecta bait stations to help keep non targeted animals and children away from the traps.

Rodenticides:chemical control

Rodenticides are poison baits and should be used in areas where domestic animals and children can't reach. However there are resistant -tamper bait stations that hold the baits in place and keep children and pets out. It is a national law and guideline to use resistant-tamper proof bait stations in areas where children or pets could access.

We carry single feeding bait (requires just one feeding for a lethal dose).

The baits come in seed, pellets, liquid or block forms.

Multiple feed bait: rodents need multiple feedings for a lethal dosage

Baits available in a liquid concentrate

Tamper proof bait stations to keep children and pets out

Rodent bait kits: everything you need - bait and bait stations combinations

Final Blox
Single feed bait and weather resistant

Fastrac Pellets
Single feeding bait and weather resistant
contrac blox Contrac Blox
Single feeding bait and weather resistant
Contrac Pellets
Packaging: 25 gram packs
Single feed rodenticide active ingredient-Bromadiolone

Contrac Cake
Single feeding bait and weather proof

How to bait

Successful baiting for mice is to have many bait placements containing a small amount of bait, rather than a large amount of bait in fewer locations.

If the infestation is severe, you can't have enough bait placements.

If there is a source of food (other than the mouse bait), regardless of the quaility of the bait, the mouse may never touch the mouse bait. If you have two bait placements placed 20 feet apart the mice may never visit the bait, if there is other sources of food, so place the bait shorter distances from each other.

Place bait close to the walls, if the bait is placed several inches off the wall , the mice might bypass it.

Place mouse bait at all openings on the outside of the building where mice may enter, as well as all doorways that remain open in the buildings.

Test baits by placing a couple types of bait, for example Fastrac Blox , Terad 3 Organic Baits, or Contrac pellets or Contrac blox . See if one is preferred over another form and continue to bait with the favorite preference for that mouse population. Mouse are not attracted to old baits, replace baits as necessary.

In places like restaurants, warehouses, and other commercial establishments, multiple bait placements may be done by permanent mouse bait stations on a year round basis.

Inspect possible harboraging areas of the mouse. Place bait between possible harboraging areas and the current source of food. This would encourage the mice to encounter the bait during its travels.

Inspect possible feeding areas such as piles of droppings, shredded paper, tracks, mouse odors, in darkened areas. Place bait in these areas.

Often there is a high rodent activity in corners of rooms and in cabinets, where two surfaces join at angles. Rodents have a strong tactile feedback in run in those areas. Place bait there.

You may encourage feeding by using bait stations, like the RTU Mice Bait Station or the Protecta Mouse Bait Station ( both are tamper proof to keep non targeted animals and children out of the bait box). These staitons provide the mouse an attractive feeding location.

Space bait placements 8-12 feet apart. Use the shorter distances in severe infestations. It is important to follow up and check bait usage after you placement of the bait.

Move any existing bait placemnent another 5 feet in another direction to intersect with another mouse territory. Remember when placing baits that mice may be living above their food source such as attics and suspended ceilings. They also may be living below their food source in such areas as crawl spaces, floor voids and basements. Mouse populations do have individual prefences for bait.



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